A hundred pairs of gumboots

Back in February, our community health workers’ (CHWs) regular monthly meeting had a talk from Gloria, a visitor from Kampala. Gloria works for Uganda Protestant Medical Bureau (UPMB), an umbrella organisation that acts as advocate, fundraiser, advisor and much more to mission hospitals and health centres all over Uganda. UPMB also provides essential services to green Mission Partners needing to get their air freight through customs, Ugandan nurse registration, and other bureaucratic nightmares. (For those of you with long memories of our blog, Anne’s nurse registration is still not confirmed, though we are promised the precious piece of paper in the next month or so….)

Gloria had come to ask us to evaluate some health education posters that have been produced for this region, in the local language. Their message was about family planning, and the whole thing was part of a project on sexual and reproductive health financed, in part, by the UK Big Lottery (no comment!). But the highlight of Gloria’s visit was some freebies for the CHWs – tee shirts and caps, all bearing a suitable message about empowering women, wearing condoms, accompanying your wife to the labour ward or other such worthy sentiment. There was only one problem – Gloria had expected twenty CHWs, but there were actually nearly one hundred people in the room. This was a major disaster.

CHWs are essentially volunteers – they receive no remuneration for their work, but after two weeks’ training deliver all manner of health advice in their own villages, hand out free malaria tablets for children, mobilise communities to take part in immunization campaigns, perform drama shows about HIV/AIDS, organise video shows … the list is endless. Their only reward is the occasional tee shirt. Twenty tee shirts and twenty caps does not divide at all well between a hundred poor people, for whom these were relative riches. But Gloria said no problem, there were more supplies at UPMB if only someone could come to Kampala and collect them (just 500km away…). The CHWs refused to take any of the goods until everyone could have them – and nobody was willing to take the responsibility of looking after them in the meantime for fear of being accused of allowing ‘leakage’ – the euphemism for corruption. So the muzungu (that’s me) was asked to take care of the goods until there were enough to go around, as well as being charged with collecting the additional ones.

However when I went to UPMB a couple of weeks later it became clear that the extra tee shirts and caps were still at the factory – in fact they might not be ready till April! So March’s meeting found me apologising for my failure to collect the goods. April’s meeting was similarly unrewarded but the next time we were in Kampala, at the end of April, a phonecall from Gloria told me the much awaited goods were available at last. Oh, and by the way – there were also one hundred pairs of gumboots (wellingtons to you and me)!

Knowing the delight they would cause back at Kuluva, we went to pick up the said tee-shirts, caps and gumboots. But our courage failed us when we saw the size and felt the weight of the four huge sacks they were packed in. We already had a car full of various workbooks and other goods for Ringili, and some essential foodstuffs for ourselves that are only available in the fleshpots of Kampala. But for Allan it was a challenge not to be shirked. Despite pouring rain, and helped by a couple of porters from UPMB who were a bit cynical, he packed, re-packed, pushed and shoved until finally emerging victorious with the doors shut, but only just!

So last Monday the glorious day came – one hundred CHWs received their new clothes and immediately donned them all – the photos tell the rest of the story.

“Be Prepared For Culture Shock”

“Depression – The excitement and newness wears off. It gets replaced by irritation at the hassles and inefficiency, and annoyance with your companions.......” (Dr Ted Lankester, ‘The Traveller’s Good Health Guide’, 2nd Edition 2002, Sheldon Press)

Soon after arriving in Uganda we wrote on this blog about a ‘Cultural Incident’. Despite leaving us tired after the loss of a night’s sleep, the incident had its amusing side, we could laugh it off. If that was what culture shock meant, then we were confident we could handle it. So when a colleague in Kampala asked towards the end of the year if we had experienced the ‘Six Month Low’ we wondered what she might mean – we hadn’t registered Ted Lankester at that stage.

Of course, six months is a bit of a generalisation, but nevertheless when we passed five.....six....seven months, we began to relax, until......... Until the car started to go (expensively) wrong, important planned meetings were cancelled (and those that actually happened started hours late)....... Until our hard-won job descriptions didn’t match the work we had started to do whilst waiting for the job descriptions, and we realised that there were no resources to fund the work we had to do...... Until we found that local expressions of worship didn’t meet our spiritual needs, and that we left Sunday services feeling more frustrated than when we arrived....... Until it seemed that most callers at our house wanted us to pay their school fees, or to borrow money for some reason........ Until the culture shock we experienced interacting with transatlantic muzungus began to create additional tensions we had never expected.......... Until it became clear that the ethos of other mission agencies conflicted with our own, and we found ourselves with no Regional Manager to talk to........ Until......

Of course, little of this was new. We had been experiencing what we perceived as inefficiency in the Ugandan system for months – late, long and cancelled meetings. We had resigned ourselves to the unprepared style of worship and preaching in the Church of Uganda – wasn’t that one of the issues Allan had been asked to come to help address? The roads had taken their toll on our car since we had bought it, and the rise in fuel costs (as well as the rise in value of the Ugandan Shilling against Sterling) had been increasing our motoring costs, and we knew we had a lot more money and material resources that most of the people we lived with......... Indeed the only new difficulties were with other muzungus, CMS re-organisation, and.........ourselves, most of all, ourselves.

Ted Lankester writes in his book about four phases of adapting to a new culture, Elation, Depression, Recovery and Acculturation. He says, “just being prepared for them can be helpful. You then realize it’s probably normal to be feeling the way you are, rather than wonder what on earth is happening to you.” We read these words in the midst of Phase Two and wanted to throw the book through the window; I suspect that was all part of the Depression Phase.

Another part is the inability to write blogs, or at least the inability to write blogs that don’t end up in the depths of despair; which is why we didn't write then, but can now write this. It feels as though we’re moving out into Phase Three: 'Recovery'. Praise the Lord! And we know that it’s only because of the faithful prayers of our partners and friends back in the UK that we didn’t buy a one-way ticket home.

“Of course.....you still have bad days”, writes Ted. Maybe so, but God hasn’t abandoned us over the last five weeks or so – nor over the past 50-60 years, so despite the bad days we’ll probably be fine!