Sunday 10 February 2008

Music Matters

Moving to Leicester before coming to Uganda one thing I knew I would really miss was singing with the Sheffield Philharmonic Chorus. The privilege and excitement of sharing in performances of some of the greatest music ever written with such a great bunch of people was something I will always treasure. Leaving them behind was very difficult, but I knew Uganda would have its own musical tradition which I looked forward to experiencing.

And indeed Uganda does have its own musical traditions. Pictured is a band playing some traditional African instruments at a wedding we sneaked into on our present visit to Kampala. All the instruments are home-made and it was of fascinating to see the ‘xylophone’ type instrument being tuned before the performance by hacking bits of wood off the blocks with a machete!

In terms of tuning, the sounds these instruments produce is much closer to medieval music, nowhere near as precise as our Chorus Master, Darius, expected (and presumably still expects) from the Sheffield Phil. But the music was full of colour, drive and energy and sounded great. The bottom-waggling dancing of the ladies also added a further dramatic dimension to the performance, from which members of the Sheffield Phil. could, I am sure, learn a great deal!

We’ve met the stringed instruments (adungua) as well as the drums (ari) in the North West at weddings, fund-raising events, and in the occasional service. But sadly we have heard very little traditional African music since coming to Uganda, and in particular it isn’t generally in evidence in Anglican Church worship. Drums are used to add a beat, but little more. In worship, mostly keyboards and guitars are used to accompany western hymns, songs and choruses from old revival traditions. Sometimes these are translated into the local language (Lugbara), but poor Ugandans often have to grapple with lines like, “Perfect submission, perfect delight, visions of rapture burst on my sight.” Hard enough if English is your native language, but if it’s your second language........

The other problem is that most western hymn tunes are rhythmically not very adventurous and depend for interest on their harmony, but most guitarists and keyboard players in Arua play by ear and have a relatively small repertoire of chords. Combine with this the likelihood that that guitar is not necessarily in tune with itself, let alone the keyboard, and the results can be hard for us to live with. We feel it would be so good if the African Christians where we live, could let go some of the alien western culture they have received, and learn to worship God through their own musical traditions – like the wedding band we heard only a few days ago.

Having said all that I did end up training and conducting a small singing group in some Christmas carols at a muzungus’ Christmas Eve party at the local Catholic Radio Station in Arua – followed by 20 flavours of ice cream! But I still missed the Sheffield Phil and their sherry and mince pies!

P.S. For any Sheffield Phil readers, Anne and I will sing our way through St John’s Passion on Good Friday, albeit a few thousand miles from where you’ll be singing it.

Friday 8 February 2008

Praise God for the European Union


The European Union is frequently the organisation we love to hate. It spends our taxes on dubious projects and perks for the people in Brussels and Strasbourg. It is about endless bureaucracy, euro-sausages (for Yes Minister fans out there) and interminable wrangles about constitutions.

But here in Kuluva, the European Union is a source of thanksgiving and delight. Because an EU grant worth millions of euros gave nine Schools of Nursing in Uganda a chance to upgrade their decaying and unsuitable buildings significantly. Kuluva was one of the chosen few.

So at present we are working in buildings which look rather like they belong in a war zone. Our lectures are interrupted by bangs and crashes, and we have had to vacate our staff offices for a room which we share with bicycles, a oil-leaking motor bike, and sheets of corrugated iron roofing sheets. But its all in a good cause.

At the end of the next few months, we will have refurbished classrooms with higher walls and new roofs which overhang to protect against the afternoon heat. They will be redecorated and equipped with better facilities. We are already enjoying the first computers for student use that Kuluva has ever had. We will also have brand new hostels for both male and female students – at present they are patiently sharing four students to each room designed for two.

So when we meet for morning devotions we thank God, among other things, for the EU. When you next have the privilege of paying taxes, remember where some of the money is going!